Our journey to the Albanian Alps began in Shkodër, often referred to as the Cradle of Culture. Shkodër is a sleepy city in Northern Albania near Lake Shkodër, the largest lake in the Balkans. Things are old here, and move a bit slower. The backdrop provides a stark contrast to the capital of Tirana.
Though Shkodër is steeped in history and surrounded by natural beauty, it feels like there isn’t much to do. But if you dive deep enough, you’ll find a blend of ancient landmarks, markets, and scenic landscapes.
More importantly, it’s a jumping-off point to exploring the Albanian Alps. An activity that is quickly becoming the must-do thing in the region. Pretty much what everyone comes here for. We were no different, and arrived with one goal in mind: to experience the raw beauty of the Accursed Mountains.
🌎 BROS TIP: The Albanian Stare: If you plan on spending a decent amount of time in Albania, you’ll have to get used to some staring directed at you. Particularly if you are a woman, you will notice yourself getting a fair amount of looks. Just chalk it up as a cultural difference. A local told us, Albanians stare a lot, especially older people but young people too. Albania has been isolated for a long time, and recently just started seeing an influx of tourists; most people aren’t used to that and are curious. They like to take a gaze because you look different and it’s usually nothing to be worried about. Just walk by a café where a few OGs are scrolling on their phones, sipping coffee, and you’ll see what we mean.
The Basics
Due to its awesome reviews, we booked the Green Garden Guesthouse in Shkodër. Little did we know, that this cozy hostel would become the launching pad for one of our most unforgettable adventures yet. In addition to the dog and cats, one of the coolest parts of the hostel is the countless turtles that reside on the property.
As novice hikers with limited knowledge of the region, we would utilize our first week to our advantage: take notes and listen to the stories of all the hikers who completed the trek. Traveling slowly and not in a rush comes with some benefits after all. We would also spend a few days taking long walks around town in the Albanian heat to condition ourselves and prepare our legs before putting them to the test.
Since we wanted to smash this mission with minimal hiccups we would soak up as much knowledge as possible before hitting the trail. We’re stoked to share that info with you today, hoping you bypass any missteps and have as good of an experience as we did.
🌎 BROS TIP: Albania’s Buses: The 2-hour bus from the capital of Tirana to Shkoder was cake. We were warned about the unorganized bus system of Albania, but we found it to be rather easy. No schedule no rigid system. It’s like controlled chaos, buses departing left and right, going in every direction. If you don’t know where your bus is, no worries, the bus driver’s right-hand man will find it for you. Just show up and see what happens. More likely than not, you will be approached and sent in the right direction to catch your bus.
The Hydration Hiccup
The number one thing we noticed was a common affliction plaguing many of our fellow hikers: gastrointestinal discomfort. Upon closer inspection, we realized that those who had fallen ill had one thing in common – they all drank from the fountains along the way.
They filled their water bottles with any hose, spigot, and faucet water in sight. A big no-no, especially during the tail end of peak season, because you’re scraping the water off the bottom of the barrel, increasing the chances of contamination.
While this correlation may have been coincidental, it serves as a reminder of the importance of caution when venturing into the wilderness. Armed with this knowledge, we took proactive measures to safeguard our health by carrying our own water supply and supplementing it with purchases from cafes along the trail.
We would pack it in and pack it out, if we needed water on the trail we would purchase a sealed bottle. Don’t be cheap, just buy a new bottle of water, and your insides will thank you later. Getting the runs in the woods is no fun.
Though this meant a slightly heavier pack, the peace of mind it afforded us was well worth the effort. The result was no stomach discomfort for the Bros.
The Rules to Follow
The Green Garden Hostel wasn’t just accommodation; it became our Northern Albanian headquarters. Surrounded by fellow travelers, we exchanged stories and soaked up the local vibe. One of the best ways to do this is by biking around town, to the lake, and having a hearty meal at the nearby family restaurant: Bar Restaurant Leone. Make sure you arrive with an appetite.
One of the most valuable nuggets of wisdom came from Mikel and Irene, the hostel’s fantastic hosts. During our time at Green Garden, we had the chance to spend some time with Mikel and Irene, hostel owners and longtime locals. This duo are true pros, and they’ve just opened their newest property Tia’s Hostel in downtown Shkodër.
Their wealth of local knowledge of the region proved invaluable. Nothing like chatting with Albanian locals over a few cigarettes and glasses of handmade raki distilled from grapes harvested right in their backyard.
Mikel, in particular, emerged as our de facto guide, having traversed these rugged mountains since childhood. We always got a laugh when hostel visitors questioned his guidance because they read something online. An overlying theme:
When you’re in Albania, don’t question an Albanian!
Since you can do the traverse from either direction, Mikel specifically recommended undertaking the hike going from Theth to Valbona. Not the other way around. When he stated the reasons we knew we were in good hands.
Here are 5 rationales why you should go from Theth to Valbona and not Valbona to Theth. These tips are from someone who has lived there his whole life and helped thousands of travelers take on the challenge:
5. Morning Might
The steepest part of the climb is at the beginning. By conquering the toughest uphill section with the sun on your back, you’re ready for the scenic wonders that lie ahead.
The journey commences with the toughest ascent from Theth. This allows hikers to tackle the most challenging part of the trail while energy levels are at their peak. Better to get it done early, while you’re still fresh! With Mikel’s guidance, we embraced a cooler morning start and set off, fueled by the promise of adventure before us.
🌎 BROS TIP: What is Rakia!? Rakija, rakia, rachiu, raki, or rakiya is a collective term for fruit spirits or fruit brandy. The unofficial, official drink of the Balkans. Depending on where you are, it may have a different name. It’s going to be harsh no matter what you want to call it. Rakia’s alcohol content is typically 40% ABV, but home-produced rakia can be stronger, anywhere in the range from 50%–80%. In Albania, rakia is usually made out of grapes in mild climate regions and plums in colder climate areas. It’s a drink deeply connected to the Albanian tradition so show respect and remember to always sip and never shoot your rakia.
4. Shaded Haven
The initial ascent becomes a breeze under the cool embrace of the alpine forest. One of the unexpected joys of the hike was the shelter provided by the dense alpine forests that dot the trail. You’ll be utilizing the shade during the start rather than the end when it’s cooler in the late afternoon.
As we ascended through the green canopy, the sunlight peeked through the leaves offering a welcome reprieve from the exertion of the climb. It gets hot out on the trail and having the shade after one of the toughest sections is a treat and leaves your motivation running on high.
3. Scenic Majesty
Every turn of the trail revealed a new vista more breathtaking than the last. From cascading waterfalls to craggy peaks, the landscape unfolded like a work of art painted by Mother Nature herself. With a mountain range as special as the Accursed, you’ll want to soak in every view.
By tackling the hike from Theth to Valbona, the majestic views are always in front of you and not your back. By taking this particular route of the trail, you continuously have the best views ahead in the distance as you climb. With each step, we were reminded of the raw, untamed beauty of the Albanian Alps.
2. Efficient Logistics
Opting to begin our hike from Theth offered a more manageable ascent and streamlined our logistical arrangements. Thanks to Mikel’s insider knowledge, we were able to navigate the intricacies of local transport with ease, saving precious time and energy for the journey ahead. It was a real treat for our sore legs to relax and take in the sights on the ferry after all the hard work was done.
We enjoyed the grandeur of the fjords while on the ferry instead of feeling cramped in a transport van after a long hike. If you go the other way around you are just stuck on a bus back for hours without any break up in the trip to stretch your legs.
🌎 BROS TIP: Although you can figure it all out on your own, we recommend booking through an agency. The way back will involve a bus and a ferry to another bus so it’s best to leave all that up to the experts to handle. The entire adventure costs around $115 each and includes all transportation, shuttle transfers, the ferry, 2 guest houses, and meals. When you’re sore after the hike, the last thing you want to do is go around figuring out logistics. Better yet, just book with Tia’s Hostel and Mikel even if you’re not staying there.
1. Trust the Local Wisdom
Ultimately, it was Mikel’s unwavering confidence in this route that sealed the deal for us. As a native of the region, his endorsement was all we needed to reassure us that we were embarking on the adventure of a lifetime.
When an Albanian tells you how you should do something in Albania, don’t hesitate. Of course, you can do it the other way around, but take the local’s word for it. It’s worth its weight in gold. Let’s be honest when a local legend speaks, you listen!
The Albanian Alps are Calling
For explorers seeking a European trekking adventure off the beaten path, the Theth to Valbona hike has it all, natural beauty, cultural immersion, and excitement. The Albanian Alps lure you in with the promise of adventure and a feeling of being taken back in time in time.
Some things are best left unchanged, as is the case with the Albanian Alps. Guesthouses along the route link the cultural bridge of Albanian hospitality and give a glimpse chance of how life once was, and still is to this day.
The kicker is, it’s a European adventure that won’t break the bank. At least not yet. Compared to the well-tracked trails of Switzerland and France, the Albanian Alps provide a stunning and affordable alternative.
This 3-day journey through this majestic mountain range stands out as a highlight of our Balkan explorations.
More than just a hike – this journey will test your mind and body, leaving you with a feeling of self-discovery. It’s a testament to the resilience of the human spirit, to keep pushing on even when tired. A celebration of the wonders that await those who dare to explore.
The Accursed Mountains are calling – will you answer?
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