When the opportunity to take the slow boat to Laos had presented itself, we found ourselves ready to hop aboard. A theme we often hear in travel is “try something new”. Whether it’s food, culture or activities, you find yourself consistently in this mindset, applying it to all aspects of your journey.
Anyone that has traveled long term will tell you, it’s not always about the destination but the journey to get there. Another valuable travel lesson we would try to incorporate in every logistical decision we made from here on out.
Say YES to New Adventures
One muggy morning in Pai a few seasoned South East Asia backpackers passed along a tip on THE way to get to Laos via Northern Thailand. Well, technically it’s not the only way, but it sounded like a change of pace, literally and it certainly was the more exciting route. The slow boat to Luang Prabang. Of course, you could take a bus, and who even knows what a slow boat is? Another option is a speed boat that will get you there in 6 hours, but let’s just say these boats are extremely dangerous and have horrific safety records, so that option was off the table.
Having not researched on this new form of slow transit, we knew one thing, a sweltering hot packed bus would be boring and we’ve done that before, so a relaxing river cruise sounded like a no-brainer. Even if it was slower, the price was right and time was on our side. Travel is always about saying YES to a new adventure. Our decision was made and after spending a few days in Chiang Rai, we were set to embark on a 2-day journey on the mighty Mekong into Laos.
Turns out that an uncomfortable bus was inevitable and the journey began with a 6 am departure for a 2-hour ride from Chiang Rai to Chiang Khong on the Thai-Laos border. As it seems to be the case at every border crossing, there’s a mad dash to fill out your paperwork so have a pen handy and your $35 USD for visa fees ready to rock.
Upon completing the forms, you’ll receive your 30 day Laos tourist visa stamp. You always hear mixed stories about border crossing nightmares, but for us, it seemed to be relatively smooth. Of course, there are always a few local tour guides hanging around, trying to sell you something extra that’s unnecessary, but just smile and politely say no thanks. You’ve gotten this far, so you already know the drill. Nice! Another visa stamp and another exciting new country to explore. Time to hop in a songthaew, and head to the port in Huay Xai.
Day 1 & Departure
We purchased tickets costing $25 USD for the slow boat an hour or so before departure from the ticket office just up the street from the dock. If your seats aren’t booked together, no worries. This is Asia, so rules are minimal and sit wherever you please. Having a solid breakfast and stocking up on long-haul snacks and essentials will be key for your boat ride. If you’re looking for a booze cruise, you can fill a styrofoam cooler with some cold ones to keep the suds flowing as you make your way to the ancient capital of Luang Prabang Province.
This seemed like a popular choice for the cool kids hanging in the back of the boat, but between the exhaust fumes and incredibly loud (obnoxiously loud, ring your ears loud) engine room, we opted for the traditional row seats. It was mid-November and the weather was quite nice for us, but it is known to get chilly on the river so having an extra layer available for comfort helps.
The first leg of the voyage is around 6 hours or so before you stop for the night in the village of Pakbeng. You’ll pull up around 5 or 6 pm to be greeted by some Bob Marley playing and overly enthusiastic guesthouse workers trying to sell you on their accommodations. Go with your gut here, after all, it’s only 24 hours, but make sure you’re driven to your resting place for the night since the hills are a pain to walk.
Accommodations are minimal so don’t expect much, a barely working toilet, mattress on the floor with a mosquito net, a noisy fan and a padlock on your door sound about right. Most guesthouses double as restaurants so you don’t even have to seek out food which is nice since there’s nothing to explore, and the Happy Bar is the spot to socialize if you’re not too tired from the long day.
Day 2 & Arrival
Before boarding the boat the next day we spotted a herd of elephants across the river partaking in their morning routine. We’ve never seen elephants in their natural habitat before and couldn’t ask for a better way to start the 2nd leg of our journey.
There we sat, basking in the sights along the riverbank while sitting on old re-purposed transporter van seats. Soaking in the ever-changing views of the Mekong River, we drifted away in and out of naps, daydreams and swigs of cheap Thai whiskey. Today’s trip, although similar to yesterday, was much more enthralling as the scenery vastly changed the closer we got to Luang Prabang.
You’ll want to have your camera ready as the hills seemed to be greener, the mountains become bigger and limestone karst cliffs jut up out of nowhere. Wow, if this is what we can expect from Laos we are sure in for a treat. After you pull into the pier and trek up some stairs, you will find tuk-tuk drivers waiting to take you into Luang Prabang. Rally a couple of fellow backpackers, share the fare and boom, you’re on your way.
The boat is somewhat symbolic of the way things move in Laos, just a bit slower than everywhere else. The no rush attitude adds to the charming nature and tranquility of this beautiful country.
Although it may not be the fastest mode of transit, arriving by slow boat and being introduced to Laos in such a unique way was very memorable. It’s the perfect chance to catch up on some reading, a journal entry, enjoy the calming nature of the river, and ease your way into the Laotian way of life.
Backpacking Southeast Asia?…or around the world?! Check out our posts on Thailand, Laos & Cambodia!
READY TO TAKE THE SLOW BOAT TO LAOS?
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