While the tubing scene in Vang Vieng was going off up north as THE thing to do in Laos, Don Det quietly remained off the backpacker trail. That was almost 15 years ago, fast forward to today and things have certainly changed since then. Chill vibes, inexpensive accommodations, and cheap beers somehow always seem to attract budget travelers…Go figure.
Backpackers are bound to discover these unique locations around the world, matter what their coordinates may be. Even when they are located on an archipelago of 4,000 islands, smack in the middle of the mighty Mekong river.
On Island Time
A backpacker’s utopia, this place is chill, like really chill. Could be the Happy cafes 🙂 talking here, but Don Det will have you feelin’ like things move in slow motion. The island’s got a mix of super friendly locals and backpackers and you’ll meet people staying from two days to two weeks and even settling in for months. Now that the island has 24-hour electricity which wasn’t even a thing until a few years ago, this place is now very much on the budget-conscious traveler’s radar.
Whether you’re looking to recover from partying your ass off in Vang Vieng or seeking a laidback charming little getaway. An escape to Laos’ Four Thousand Islands, will have you saying, been there, Don Det.
A New Vang Vieng?
Due to the many injuries and even deaths endured by the recklessness that went down during the tubing scene in Vang Vieng, it’s rumored the government stepped in due to some bad press. They’ve now made an effort with some changes to ensure travelers’ safety. As we know, change in all forms is inevitable when it comes to travel. And well, the famous river bar crawl is just not the same anymore.
Some travelers have even reported that Vang Vieng has lost its party scene in town as well. Those early rager days are long gone. With most of the bars on the Nam Song river now closed (only a handful of them survived the shutdown, 2-4 out of 25!), the lure to go drunken tubing lacks the vibe it once had. Crowds are pretty minimal for the drunken escapades nowadays and the whole thing feels kinda gimmicky, even a bit forced.
Honestly, tubing wasn’t even our highlight during our stay in Vang Vieng. Unbeknown to most, there are actually a ton of hikes and other cool things to do in the area. We’ll put whipping a dune buggy around dirt roads up there on the list of awesome things to do.
How to Get There, Don Det
We hadn’t even heard about Don Det until a fellow backpacker mentioned it to us on the slow boat from Thailand. (Thanks Gerard from Spain!) He described it as a place to go barebones and get back to the basics, somewhere you can truly relax. A place where your worries seem to float away with the flow of the Mekong.
However, getting here will take a little bit of effort. After all, the Mekong is the longest river in Southeast Asia, but it will be worth your while. Chilling hard on Don Det is the perfect way to end (or begin) your time in Laos before heading to (or after) Cambodia.
Most travelers will arrive at Si Phan Don – The Four Thousand Islands, from Pakse, the biggest city in this part of the country. There’s a bus that takes around 2.5 hours from Pakse or a 20-minute boat ride. There are a few different options you can weigh out once you are closer and choose what works best for you. Coming from the capital? Busses from Vientiane to Pakse take around 10 hours or so.
🌎 BROS TIP: The easiest option to travel the 80 miles from Pakse to Don Det is by buying a ticket that combines a bus and ferry ride. Tickets cost around $12 with an inexact travel time of around 3.5 hours. The only downfall of this alternative is that there is usually only one trip departure per day.
Be sure to pack some cash as ATMs are few and far between and can be unreliable on the island. The main islands of the archipelago are Don Kong, Don Som, Don Det, and Don Khon. But this blog is all about Don Det because it’s the cheapest, most lively, and most popular, where the backpackers can be found. Now that you’re on island time get ready to slow things down.
The Falls
Hugging the border of Cambodia, the Khone Falls and Pha Pheng Falls form The Khone Phapheng Falls. The largest waterfall in Southeast Asia. These massive raging waterfalls are the main reason why the Mekong River is not fully navigable into China.
Thousands of islands and countless waterways form the archipelago, giving the zone its name Si Phan Don or “The 4,000 Islands”.
The highest falls reach almost 70 feet (21 meters) with a series of rapids stretching around 6 miles (9.7 km) of the river’s length.
With brute force and power, the 35,376-foot (10,783 meters) wide Khone Phapheng Falls is the widest waterfall in the world.
Double the water capacity of Niagra Falls, two and a half million gallons of water pump through these falls. Insane! Getting a glimpse of the largest and most awesome waterfall anywhere along the Mekong will make your trip to Don Det worth it.
🌎 BROS TIP: The falls are a short bike or moto bike ride from the Don Det-Don Khone Bridge. You’ll ride on a bumpy dirt road that winds through the middle of the island. Keep an eye out for the small signs that direct visitors toward a suspension bridge. The bridge is a bit sketchy but safe as you dangle over rocks and a rushing river. Continue for a few about five more minutes to reach the falls.
What Else is There to Do?
The main attraction in Don Det is being lazy and laying in a hammock in front of your bungalow. Nothing is really the best thing to do in Don Det but that doesn’t mean it’s a boring place.
Find A Beach
Beaches on a landlocked Laos? Yes, please. Ok, ok it’s certainly not a world-class beach but if your down to get a bronze on and take a dip in the river, it works! We heard a local vegan cafe, The Garden of Eden, supposedly has one of the best on the island which is free for customers to use as long as you purchase something from the restaurant.
Take A Dolphin Tour
Freshwater Irrawaddy Dolphins are more susceptible to human conflict than other dolphins that live in the ocean. Sadly, the 4000 Islands are one of the last remaining locations in the world where this genius of dolphin can be spotted.
On Don Det, you can book a tour to check them out in the wild. Laotians and Cambodians have a common belief that the Irrawaddy dolphins are reincarnations of their ancestors, but sadly they are constantly threatened by the damming of the Mekong, overfishing, nets, and pollution.
Enjoy A Sunset
Sunsets in southeast Asia are famously beautiful. In Laos, the sunsets are shorter than in most places but surely put on a show. Chilling in a cafe or on the river, a sunset in Don Det is a perfect way to cap another relaxing day. An alternative popular sunset viewpoint is on the bridge from Don Det to Don Khon.
Fishing on Don Det
Okay, we’re not gonna lie, the only thing we caught on the river was a Beer Lao buzz. Maybe you’ll have better luck fishing here than we did.
Though we didn’t hook anything, we’ll never pass up the opportunity to cruise on a longtail boat. Fishin’ on the Mekong was a fun way to pass some time and cost us less than $10 bucks.
Ride a Rickety Bike
Since there are no cars on the island, the best way to see Don Det is by cycling around. Although any bike you rent probably hasn’t seen a tune-up in ages, it’s the preferred method to get around. Taking it slow is the Don Det way, and when you cruise inland you’ll get a real feel for the local rural way of life. Bikes are easy to find and typically rented out by every guest house.
Find A Pool
This one is self-explanatory, it gets hot here. Most hotels and guesthouses will let you use their pool for a daily fee, even if you are not staying there. Some recommendations include Little Eden Resort (below), Long Island Guest House, Don Det Public Swimming Pool & The Golden Hotel. Taking a swim or tubing in the river is another way you can cool down during hot days on Don Det.
Final Thoughts on Don Det
Things aren’t fully developed here so set your expectations accordingly. Backpacking through Southeast Asia can run you down, and sometimes you need a vacation from your vacation. Don Det delivers on relaxing to the max. And though it may not be as sexy as most places in Southeast Asia it’s uniquely it’s own. Sometimes it’s those one-of-a-kind places that leave a lasting impact on us.
We hope this blog can give you some inspiration to get to this rare isolated location in Laos. Have you been there, Don Det? We’d love to hear about your experience in Laos! Drop us a comment below!
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