Wrapping up our second month in Guatemala we found ourselves in Quizeltenango after making the trip from Panajachel. With a week or so to kill before I headed to participate in a Workaway at a surf lodge in El Paredon, we figured we could spend some time in Xela. Here we’d experience Guatemala’s second-largest city and get a taste of “Los Altos” the country’s western highlands.
A proud city, with distinct regional culture, and rich heritage. We didn’t do much research beforehand but we knew the surrounding department of Quetzaltenango has a variety of landscapes. Our legs were warmed up after a few hikes at Lake Atitlan and we were ready to explore volcanos, mountains, and hot springs before heading to the beach. Unfortunately, other plans were in store for us.
Welcome to Quetzaltenango
After two days in Xela, we struggled to find footing. Although there were a handful of things to do, maybe we lacked a bit of motivation. Maybe it was the shock of being back in a big city after spending 3 calm weeks at the lake. Maybe we were skeptical about trying the local foods because we really didn’t want to deal with stomach sickness or traveler’s diarrhea again.
Every time we arrive in a new city or location, it usually takes a few days to settle in. Once you get used to your surroundings and a general feel for a place, it starts to feel a bit more comfortable. After all, we hadn’t slept in the same bed for 4 nights in a row leading up to our arrival, so there was that.
To this point, the only things we can say we had accomplished were eating at McDonald’s, going to a Walmart, and checking out the local shopping mall. Nothing to write home about in the least. Just a mere attempt to enjoy some comforts of home in a foreign place.
But that would change on day 3 after we spoke with the local cleaning woman at the hostel. She encouraged us to get out and enjoy the views or take a trip to the hot springs and relax for the day.
That’s it, today’s the day we’re getting after it. Either the Fuentes Georginas Hot Springs or the Cerro El Baúl Mirador.
The hot springs seemed a bit small and more like a ploy to get you to eat at the restaurant there. Plus it was a 45-minute Uber ride. We traveled enough to know tourist traps and how to spot them. On the other hand, the viewpoint was only a 30-minute walk and we could explore the city a bit while we were at it. A two-for-one.
We took the cleaning woman’s recommendation to check it out. She was a local, born and raised, so she what was up. Get some steps by walking uphill to the park and also some cool photos overlooking the city. Our itinerary was set.
El Baúl is a forested lava dome overlooking the valley of Quetzaltenango (Xela) with a park to chill at when you get there. The decision was made, the destination was plugged into GoogleMaps and we were off on our way.
Off to The Mirador
It was quiet for Wednesday afternoon, with not much action in the streets or parks. To be fair, it was pretty hot out. We were about 20 minutes in when we approached the final stretch to get up to Municipal Cerro El Baúl Park. However, the directions started to seem a bit strange from Google as there appeared to be a few different entrances to the final location.
Instead of taking the main entrance north of the park, we were directed to take some side roads to reach the south trail leading into the park, ultimately bringing us to the viewpoint. It should have taken us to the hiking trail from a Church at the top of the park. However, Google’s blue dot never failed us so trusted it and pushed on.
We were eventually led to some residential side roads that were poorly kept. That’s when the dogs started to bark. Although we never entered anyone’s yard, it surely seemed as if we were on private property.
A couple of dogs growled from behind the fence as another one close by was eager to break the chain of the doghouse it was leashed onto. These were not friendly dogs and unlike any, we’ve encountered in the country so far. It was at this point I stated,
“It’s clear these dogs do not want us here.”
30 seconds later I feel a vicious bite on my right calf. As I fell to the ground the dog sunk his teeth into my leg before it turned around and took off running. This dog came sprinting out of nowhere, took a nasty bite, and was gone in a flash.
OUCH! What do we do now? We grabbed sticks and rocks for defense and turned around as blood dripped from the holes in my calf. Without hesitating, we headed to a pharmacy to obtain supplies and clean the wound. Luckily there was one close by as we stocked up on rubbing alcohol, gauze, and antibiotic ointment. The nice woman working at the pharmacy said we need to get to the Centro De Salud where they can help treat me and get me rabies shots. Step two, order an Uber and get to the Clinic ASAP.
El Ministerio de Salud Pública
We arrive at the clinic only to be welcomed by a huge line outside. After asking a few questions we were alerted that the line was for covid symptoms. Luckily I was able to walk into the clinic right away and was attended to by a nurse to help clean and dress the puncture.
They squirted what I could only assume to be alcohol on the wound from a weathered old spray bottle that looked like it belonged in a hair salon. I was glad I had studied Spanish for two years up to this point to be able to explain myself and the circumstances. Although I could never imagine this would be the type of situation I would be in.
The first nurse didn’t even use gloves to clean up the blood and the second struggled to tear the pieces of medical tape. Due to the condition in the emergency room, and the resources at the clinic, it became evident we were in a 3rd world country. At this point, I couldn’t change what had happened so I tried my best to do some positive thinking and remain calm. There’s no way this dog had rabies, it was too fast and it had to have come from somebody’s yard, I told myself. The truth is we’ll never know. One thing I did know: Rabies is something you don’t take chances with.
After I received some bandages I was alerted I needed to fill out some more paperwork and was addressed to go to a second office after the so-called ER. However, it was 1 pm and lunchtime so I would have to sit tight till the workers returned from their lunch break sometime after 2.
When it finally came around to take care of those forms, it was clear that this type of thing occurs often as there’s a separate department for dog bites and rabies. Once that paperwork was done it was time for my first of four rabies vaccine shots. But only after a bit more waiting, of course, we’re on Guatemalan time.
Rabies is no joke and the first dose of the vaccine must be administered within the first 24 hours after exposure. The receptionists at the ER highly recommended I stay in Xela for 2 weeks to receive all four of my rabies shots. The second one would be on day 4, the next on day 7, and the final on day 14. They expressed some serious concern after I had alerted them that I plan to leave Xela in the next few days or so.
There was no way I am staying here to get all these shots. At a minimum, I would go back to Antigua where I felt comfortable and could receive the rest of the treatment there. On the plus side, they told me I didn’t have to pay anything and that the vaccines were free of charge. Decisions weighed on my mind as we headed back to the hostel after a 3-hour visit to the ER.
I was told to clean the wound 3 times a day to keep it from getting infected. However, this proved to be a bit tough as it was unsafe to use the tap water. After more research, done on our own, it was discovered there is another injection that can be taken to ensure someone who is bitten by an animal does not get rabies. This is called the HRIG, Human Rabies Immune Globulin antibodies shot. Although it is not very common to get in Guatemala, this Post-Exposure Prophylaxis is highly effective in preventing rabies in humans after a suspected exposure.
Time to Bounce
My friend back in NY is a doctor (Thank you Sanjeev) and had asked around his hospital to get a few more opinions from some other physicians. Since I didn’t already have the rabies vaccine, by the book the only way to fully eliminate any doubt of contracting the deadly disease was to get the immune globulin injection, in addition to the post-exposure rabies vaccine. The safest option by far was the HRIG injection + 4 rabies vaccines. It looks like I need the Human Rabies Immune Globulin.
After calling around some private hospitals and clinics throughout the country to see if the shot of HRIG was available we came up empty-handed. We woke up the next morning with a decision to make. It was at that time we decided that we would journey back to Guatemala City by Uber and leave the country on the next flight out. The mission to NYC begins now.
Journey Back to NY
We left at 11 AM taking a 4.5-hour Uber ride eastbound to the airport and booked a flight for 11 PM while we were in the car. Landed in Newark, NJ at 5 AM the next day, taking another Uber to NYC’s Penn Station where we would get on the Long Island Rail Road eventually taking another Uber to my house.
We arrived home at around 10 AM only to scare the hell out of my mother with a surprise visit. We alerted her of the incident and got directly in the car to drive to the Hospital. Running on no sleep at this point…
At South Shore University Hospital I received 5 injections of the HRIG antibody. Two in the wound, one in my shoulder, and the remaining two in my butt cheeks.
The nurses, doctors, and staff were a bit taken aback by my story as it‘s not every day they have a patient who was bitten by a dog in another country. Unique to say the least.
I followed up for my second rabies shot the next day. Eventually received my third and final fourth rabies vaccines a week later.
You can say there’s a lesson in every travel experience and I guess this is another to add to the list. When it comes to your health and safety you don’t want to bet on that 1% what-if chance. Do everything in your power to eliminate any doubt and you’ll thank yourself later when you have peace of mind.
It was certainly not the way we wanted to leave Guatemala nor could ever imagine that would be the way it went down. Guatemala has treated us incredibly well and one thing is for sure, we will be back for more.
After being bitten by that dog, I learned more than I ever wanted to know about rabies.
Here are some Important takeaways
- The disease is virtually 100% fatal if untreated before symptoms develop
- You don’t have to be bitten to get infected
- Animals with rabies aren’t necessarily frothing at the mouth
- The only definitive test for rabies is to examine the deceased animal’s brain
- Don’t wait until you get home to see a doctor or go to the hospital – no more than three to five days after exposure for the vaccine and no more than seven days for the HRIG injection
- A rabies shot before you leave for your trip is not enough, you also need post-exposure shots
- The rabies vaccine shots no longer go into your stomach
- Rabies can show up years later if left untreated
- Rabies is preventable
Know Before You Go – Spanish Basics
- Hello! – ¡Hola!
- Morning. – Buenos días.
- Afternoon. – Buenas tardes
- Evening. – Buenas noches.
- See you later! – ¡Hasta Luego!
- How are you? – ¿Cómo estás?
- How much does it (they) cost? – ¿Cuánto cuesta(n)?
- The check please – Me trae la cuenta por favor.
- Where is the _______? – ¿Dónde está _______?
- How do I get to ….? – ¿Como llego a …?
- I don’t understand. – No comprendo / No entiendo
- Nice to meet you! – ¡Mucho gusto!
- Please. – Por favor.
- Thank you! – Gracías!
- You’re welcome – De nada.
- Yes. – Sí
- 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 – Uno, dos, tres, cuatro, cinco, seis, siete, ocho, nueve, diez
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So crazy to have found this blog.
We were going to hike the same hill in Xela and my girlfriend got bitten by a dog at the same place while following google maps.
Just got the 4th shot today 🤞
Hey Fred! I hope the bite wasn’t too bad for her, I feel her pain! The dog that got me was white with a few black spots and med-sized, wonder if it was the same one. I am pretty sure the homeowner in this area, let the dog out to attack because it ran back to the house after the bite. Sending you positive vibes and that all goes well with the rabies shots. If you have any treatment questions feel free to shoot over an email. Safe travels to you both! See ya out there!