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Surviving Death Road in Bolivia

Western Bolivia’s North Yungas Road was dubbed the “Death Road,” after consistently claiming a top spot on lists of the world’s most dangerous highways. Connecting La Paz to the low-lying region of Yungas, the road traverses through the mighty Cordillera Oriental mountain chain. Linking the Bolivian Capital to the Amazonian rainforest, it was cut in the 1930s by Paraguayan prisoners during the Chaco War. Nearly 300 drivers and passengers were killed here every year until 1994.

The lush green 43-mile (69-kilometer) switchback maxes out at 12 feet wide and features landslides, cascades, and waterfalls, with cliffs that drop off 2,000 feet (610 meters) at every turn. Extreme mountain biking tours have quickly emerged as the best way to conquer the road, taking those who dare, on a downhill ride to remember. When you’re in La Paz looking for an adrenaline fix, find out how the road got its name and try surviving the Death Road in Bolivia.


The (Bike) Ride of Your Life

It was declared the world’s most dangerous road in 1995 by the Interamerican Development Bank. Bike tours began in 1998, shuttling thrill-seekers to the summit and letting them ride the brakes all the way down. Since organized tours began, more than a dozen cyclists have lost their lives on the Death Road which currently attracts up to 25,000 tourists per year.

Nowadays, tours follow full safety protocols, and conditions are much safer than what they once used to be. However, it’s good to remember, you get what you pay for and not all tour companies are created equal. But don’t worry, as there are plenty of tour operators to choose from in La Paz.

We went with Xtreme Down Hill and were stoked with their full-day tour. This company is solid and operates under international safety standards. Reliable and knowledgeable, at a price tag of $80USD (550 Bolivianos) they’re a great value for the experience provided. They equipped us with a driver, professional guide, head-to-toe safety gear, and quality full-suspension downhill mountain bikes.

But most of all, they eased our worry about risking our lives. Included in the tour were breakfast, lunch, dinner, action photos, and a free t-shirt.  It’s a long-ass day, but it’s a small price to pay to be Death Road Survivor.


Know Before You Go

You don’t have to be a biking enthusiast to survive Bolivia’s Death Road or even a seasoned cyclist. All you need to know is how to ride a bike and have a lot of fun. Pedaling is minimal but you will face a few steep inclines so be ready to work for a few sections. Other than that, you’re coasting. You’ll be sore and may even use some muscles you thought you never had, especially those in the wrists and forearms.

The weather on North Yungas is very unpredictable and will drastically change as you descend into the valley, so it’s best to dress in layers. Rain and fog reduce visibility and may cause mudslides and tumbling rocks from the hillsides above, so keep your eyes peeled for large rocks and boulders.

Waterfalls pour down the cliffs and it may get muddy. Be prepared to get wet. Once things get a bit dryer, then you have to worry about the dust kicking up. A facemask/bandana and sunglasses are key here and will keep you on your game. Depending on when you attempt to conquer the Death Road, expect vastly different conditions between the rainy and dry seasons.

Special rules apply to bikers and you will be adhering to the left side where the views are incredible, just remember to keep your eyes on the road. Travel insurance is always a good idea, just in case shit happens.


La Cumbre – 4700 Meters

Expect to start the day around 7 am with an early pickup from your hostel or hotel in La Paz and head to your starting point. The drive to La Cumbre is just under two hours, where you will gain more than 3,000 feet (1000 meters) in elevation as you ascend to over 14,500ft (4,700 meters) above sea level.

Here, you’ll have light breakfast, listen in on a detailed safety briefing, test your bike, and make an offering to Pachamama. It’s go time. The first stretch is a very active, paved section of the road where you can pick up some speed as you pass semi-trucks. Admire the beautiful mountain vistas surrounding you.

BROS TIP: Whatever you do, don’t slam on the front brake in a panic. At high speeds, squeezing down very hard on your right brake lever will send you over the handlebars. You will fly off your bike. Be sure to be gripping down on your (left) rear brake lever at the same time. This will ensure brake pressure is evenly distributed between the front and back of the bike. You don’t want to learn this lesson the hard way. Keep calm and bike on. 


Pongo, Unduavi & Chuspipata

The next stop, sitting above the village of Pongo, will give the chance to peek over the edge of a cliff and witness the remains of a minibus that had plummeted down several years ago. You’ll start to feel the adrenaline pump if it hasn’t already as you cycle through the cloud forest. Next two stops, Unduavi and Chuspipata. You’ll pass through streams, valleys, and lush jungle before arriving at the waterfalls.


San Juan – Waterfalls

Riding through the waterfalls of San Juan may be one of the sketchiest parts of the whole ride, but after that, you’re smooth sailing. You get a little wet before sections of the ride get longer, giving you the opportunity to ride a bit faster if you want. The landscapes will change as you enter the jungle after coming down from the mountains. Let loose and pick up some speed or stay slow and steady. You won’t feel pressure from the group and it’s all up to you. Just go at your own pace, it’s not a race.

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BROS TIP: Avoid biking the road during the rainy season if you’re not very confident in your biking skills. It runs from November through March. We took on the road in July and lucked out with some great weather. Ruben the guide says the best time for beginners to ride is the dry season of May through September.


Yolosa – 1200 Meters

As you descend, the temperature should get a bit warmer, hopefully, giving way to blue skies and sunlight. The shade of mountains becomes greener than ever as the road gets dusty while widening and flattening out. Take your photo at the sign, and check out the monkey in the office of the zipline company. We passed on doing the zipline, ($30USD) and saved our money for a cold Paceña. You’re almost at the finish line.


Coroico – 1700 Meters

You’ve done it! You survived the Death Road! Coroico is the final destination, a small town that sits on the steep hillsides surrounded by lush vegetation. We were told it is a retirement place for the rich of La Paz and is a popular spot for a weekend getaway. This place is famous for its abundance of coca farms. Relax at the jungle lodge, where you can sit by the pool, enjoy a buffet lunch, chill out on a lounge, and even take a shower if you please. You’ll be greeted with a much-deserved beer before you head back to La Paz.


Is It Worth It?

Yes! Surviving Death Road in Bolivia is a write of passage for those who travel to La Paz. Taking on the narrow road sans guard rails, by bike, makes you proud to say you’ve braved the world’s most dangerous road. You’ll push yourself out of your comfort zone while being surrounded by spectacular views and live to tell the tale. It’s crazy to think the road sits in the clouds at almost 3 miles in elevation. The views alone make it worth the trip!

When planning your La Paz itinerary, be sure to leave a day to conquer North Yungas and survive Bolivia’s Death Road. For the Bros, this tour is money well spent. Check out our 1-minute video, summing up the ride!


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